Tortillas, or in the O’odham language, cemait, and in Piipaash, modiily, is a traditional food to many Indigenous tribes in southern Arizona. Over the years, many families have added their own twist on how cemait/modiily is made. These recipes have been passed down for many years, and the art of tortilla making is celebrated every year in the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community.

On the morning of March 22, the Salt River Pima Maricopa Indian Community Fire Department members Dustin Zamboni, Bobby Scabby Jr. and Clifford Lopez ran down Longmore Road in a “Lighting of the Fires Relay Run.” From the Repository to the Huhugam Ki: Museum, members of the fire department ran a burning torch that was used to start the fires that would make the tortillas.

The event was livestreamed by Cultural Resources Department (CRD), while people and police cars with their lights swirling, parked along the route and greeted the runners with cheers and a warm welcome. The sound of the techno-vaila version of “Chariots of Fire” was blaring from the pacing golf-cart, as it encouraged the enthused runners.  

The smell of firewood filled the air outside of the museum as tortilla makers prepared for this annual festival just outside the museum’s doors and parking lot. Over 600 visitors gathered on the museum grounds throughout the day where three outdoor cooking areas were in full swing with making tortillas, selling tortillas or handing out free samples. 

The Good Morning Arizona news team were there in the wee hours of 6 and 7 a.m. and did two live feeds for the home viewers. Candice Manuel and Kasheen Walker were on camera talking about how tortilla making is an important component to the cultural life of the people.

A popular event at the festival was the tortilla making classes. Led by Manuel and Debbie James, the public was offered the opportunity to learn how to make cemait/modiily from start to finish. Four different community instructors taught them how to measure ingredients, mix just the right amount of water and knead that dough. Then it was over to the 52-inch komal, and they were able to make and enjoy the finished product. The classes were open to everyone, and demand was great, so a fifth class was added.

The day was filled with games and nonstop fun for all who attended. Tortilla makers from the four sibling tribes of Arizona; Salt River Pima Maricopa Indian Community, Gila River Indian Community, Ak-Chin Indian Community and Tohono O’odham Nation showcased their talents as many demonstrated their own special ways of making cemait/modiily. Games that were tortilla themed were available to play under the vato and were run by staff from CRD.  

If you did not get a chance to go to the tortilla making classes, you at least got the opportunity to make your own tortilla. A group of women from the Community had dough balls available and helped the enthused crowd in flapping and stretching the dough to lay on the tractor disc for cooking. And of course, a tub of butter was nearby for that final touch.

Not too far from the vato, the Cultural Resources Department provided samples of cultural foods which included chia seed pudding that was topped off with goji berries and raw pumpkin seeds, Mesquite cake topped with yogurt, and two different stews, rabbit and quail, that were both, mixed with tepary beans. During the afternoon, on the west end of the museum grounds, a demonstration was done on how to season a tractor disc and get it ready for cooking tortillas.

Vaila style music was heard as Two Rivers chicken scratch band performed and attendees were able to visit different vendors that sold kitchenware along with various food vendors. Their menus included breakfast burritos, goodies, popovers and lemonade infused drinks. Beginning at 11 a.m., on the hour, the audience favorite, the large dancing cemait/modiily was out there doing his tortilla cumbia for the adoring crowd.  

Another event that wowed the crowd was the tortilla Olympics, games that showcased the tortilla makers skills such as flapping out the biggest dough and blindfolded flapping. A favorite was the burrito races, where tortilla looking cloth was wrapped around the participants and the teams took turns running down a track to win. Prizes were donated by Discover Salt River and Schuuk Designs 

By 2 p.m., all visitors and participants were happy and tired as they left with prizes, giveaways, recipes and tortillas. The Huhugam Ki: had another successful event and is looking forward to next year’s festival in a new location. 

Museum Manager Gary Owens remarked, “This year’s event was huge; it covered the entire museum grounds, people everywhere and we look forward to making this an event for Salt River, where everyone comes out to help and enjoy the tortilla history of the Community.”